Diamond and Jewelry Articles

Over the last ten years or so, the jewelry industry has undergone tremendous change. There have been breakthroughs in synthetic gem production, the rapid emergence of e-commerce, and a major shakeup of the distribution channels within the diamond industry. All of these events and many others have changed the landscape in significant ways. But perhaps no sector of the jewelry industry has seen the kind of sea change (no pun intended!) than has the cultured pearl industry.

In particular, the Chinese Freshwater Pearl Industry has practically revolutionized the market for cultured pearls.The Chinese pearl growers are today producing not only huge quantities of pearls, but bigger, better and more interesting pearls than ever before. From natural colored "spice pearls" in a variety of attractive pastel hues to large millimeter silvery white pearls that rival the vaunted South Sea pearls. In addition to freshwater cultured pearls, the Chinese have captured a large share of the market for Akoya saltwater cultured pearls. It is increasingly difficult even for professionals to distinguish between Japanese and Chinese akoyas, and even between Japanese akoya and Chinese freshwater!

The biggest difference between the Chinese freshwater cultured pearl and the Akoya is the process by which they are grown. The akoya (as well as the South Sea and Tahitian pearls) are cultured by inserting a round polished shell bead nucleus into the mollusk. The bead acts as an irritant which the mollusk coats with a relatively thin layer of mother of pearl nacre. Freshwater pearls on the other hand are cultured by the insertion of a piece of mollusk mantle tissue which stimulates the process of pearl production. The significance of the process is the end result. Akoya pearls are essentially 90% bead, 10% nacre, while Freshwater pearls are 100% nacre.

There is even debate within the trade about the appropriate terminology to use in talking about these different processes. Cultured Akoya pearls are commonly referred to as "bead nucleated," and freshwater pearls are referred to as "tissue nucleated." But German pearl expert Elizabeth Strack, author of the book "Perlen," argues that freshwater pearls should properly be referred to as "activated" rather than nucleated because the implanted tissue serves as precursor cells that form the pearl sac in which the pearl grows. Furthermore, the implanted tissue is absorbed in the process and the pearl formed is 100% pearl. In this way, the end product of the freshwater growing process is much more like a natural pearl that forms from a tiny granular irritant, than like a bead nucleated cultured pearl.

The consumer now has more choices in fine pearls and pearl jewelry while at the same time high quality pearls are becoming much more affordable. Anyone shopping for fine pearls today would be wise to consider freshwater cultured pearls.

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